I've been in Botswana for a couple months now. There's a little too
much to properly blog about, but here are some tidbits:
The capital of Botswana, Gaborone, where we live, could be mistaken for a newish American suburb. Shopping malls: check. Multiplexes:
check. Acres of manicured ranch-style homes, check. Coffee shops,
check. Family eateries, fast food, Chinese, Indian, Thai
restaurants: check, check, check, check, check. Last time we lived
here, in 1999, Julie and I used to play a game called "you know what
they need here?" And then we'd say "Taxis!" Or "Pad Thai!" Or
"Pizza delivery!", etc. Now, in 2006, the only two consumer items I
really miss from America are 1) a burrito, and 2) an edible
hamburger. Botswana gets a pass on the burrito, since NYC doesn't
even have a decent one. The burger is a bit of a mystery since
Botswana's second leading export is beef, every restaurant serves
affordable steak which is usually pretty good, and the fast food
fried chicken is often better than at home. Don't get me wrong --
burgers are on offer -- they're just digusting. They mix something
into the patty to make it taste like greasy styrofoam, and then
douse it in an approximation of sweetened motor oil. Mmm.
Food items from here that I would like to see back in America: Bokomu Fruity Flakes cereal
(photo)
(it's just good, I think it's puffed rolled wheat with bits of dried
fruit), Salticrax
(photo)
(like Ritz but without the weird artificial aftertaste), Red Label
Lemon Creams (curiously lemony), the Spur Steak House "Hot Rock"
dish (they give you a platter with raw meat and a red-hot piece of
grill surface; imagine hazardous Korean barbecue at TGI Friday's),
Appletiser (basically, carbonated apple juice), soft drinks and
candy in general (sweetend with cane sugar not high-fructose corn
syrup), the "Ten Pula Lunch" (a heaping plate of grilled meat,
coleslaw or other pickled item, and choice of starchy substances for
the equivalent of $1.50, served by the side of the road), Fatcakes
(homemade deep fried yeasty bread dough), french fries (aka "chips"
-- ubiquitous, not crispy, but fresh and kind of mushy and made from
slightly sweet flavorful potatoes -- fabulous). The restaurant and
packaged food in Southern Africa is a bit antiquated compared to the
good old USA. It often seems to be made from actual ingredients
according to an actual recipe, with a curious absence of guar gum.
I was driving around one day, and pulled out behind a tractor-trailer truck. It was a big, all white, double-trailer job.
Painted on the sides of both trailers, in large, blue, slightly
irregular capital letters, was: "HUMAN'S". That's all, just
"HUMAN'S" on the sides and back of two windowless trailers. As I
drove along behind the truck, I thought "I wish I had my camera!",
"Hm, so what IS in there?", "They wouldn't dare haul humans, that
would be crazy...", "But if you were smuggling humans, wouldn't it
be ballsy to paint HUMANS on the truck?", "Somebody really ought to
pull them over and take a look." Moments later, the HUMAN'S truck
slowed down and pulled onto the shoulder at a police roadblock. The
police waved me on, so I continued past, and didn't get to observe
the inspection, so that was that.
But a week or so later, I saw another HUMAN'S double-trailer --
almost identical, except on the back of the rear trailer, underneath
"HUMAN'S" was a slogan in painted script: "Your reliable hauler!"
Julie still thinks I'm making it all up.
There are now lots of personal taxi services around for rich expats like me, for when the car is in the shop. But the true public
transport are the "combis", which are Toyota minivans that carry
around 20 people (in a space that 8 or so Americans would find
cramped), piloted by teenaged boys. Combi drivers are more than a
little intimidating to us mortal drivers on the road. Anyway, one
day I was driving behind a combi, and ahead of us a skinny but cute
puppy dog ran into the road to dine on a bit of what looked like
roadkill. As a lover of all things cute and puppy dog, I wasn't
quite prepared for what happened next: the combi swerved TOWARDS the
puppy, and accelerated to boot! Fortunately the cute puppy, in its
short but no doubt violent life in Africa, had learned to be ever
vigilant, and it scampered off the road, far enough back that the
combi reluctantly returned to the pavement without scoring a hit.
Another combi observation. Driving along, I saw someone in a small sedan make a turn in front of an oncoming combi, slightly impeding
the combi's rapid advance. The combi driver, road enraged, pulled a
weapon from on top of the dash. Not a gun, mind you, but a switch
-- i.e. a long slender branch with the bark whittled off, that thing
you use to whip naughty children or dogs or what-have-you. "Ha ha,
funny," I thought, but this was no joke -- as the turning sedan
pulled past the combi, the combi driver took a mighty swipe at the
driver of the sedan, and very nearly striped the other driver,
through the sedan's open window!